Aleppo, Syria

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Of Souq, Karfels and Free Snacks and Heaps & Heaps of Generousity

A week in Syria in Aleppo and Damascus was short, but the Syrian people have touched our hearts deeply through their little gestures and generousity. Their genuine warmth and smiles made Syria one of the friendliest countries that I’ve ever visited, far more so than Iran.

As we walked along the streets, people smiled and said, Al-sarmal-lay-comb-Welcome! They may not speak English at all but the English term, Welcome, seemed engrained into their minds, even the old shopowner who didn’t utter a word of English.

Syrian people are dessert and pastry-lovers. There are many small bakeries and shops selling the authentic desserts and snacks. On our second day, we were attracted by the delicious spread of snacks nicely displayed in the shopfront. Unable to resist the temptation, we went into the shop to buy a few snacks to whet our appetite. We chose about five snacks and went to the counter to pay for our selection. The shop attendant placed the snacks into a nice box, and to our pleasant surprise, they said, “No, Free!” We were thankful and went out of the shop, with a “melting-heart”. “The people are so nice, can die, make my heart melt” we chorused.

On the same day, we went to the largest souq in Aleppo and had some very interesting conversations with some of the shop owners there. We were offered free bread when we stood by the side to watch them prepare the bread, Weichean was given a small slice of soap by a passer-by. I was offered nuts by the shop-owner at the tailor shop while Weichean and Arlina were busy bargaining for cheaper buys. Maybe it was because it was rare to see three Asian gals travelling in Syria on their own, but the hospitality was heartfelt.

Making Friends at the Souq in Aleppo, Syria
We were in the souq talking to a bunch of young shop owners who were relatives. They have about 17 shops in the souq, all selling carpets, scarves and jewelleries. It was really fun talking to them, hear them “bitch” and bicker with one another. One of them even had a Singaporean boyfriend previously.
I was talking to the gay shopowner when his “gaydar” sensed an attractive foreigner walking passed the shop, eating his kebab and became completely distracted. He stood up from his seat, and said, “In my next life, I wished I’m the sandwich.”
I laughed, and his brother said, “You see, my brother is gay. Very obvious. And I’m straight.”

“Not for long, retorted the brother, as he puffed the smoke from his shisha casually.

One of them, the youngest 19-year-old, was totally infatuated with Wei Chean, “She’s so beautiful, so fucking beautiful.” “She’s too old for you, I told him jokingly.” “Missus, age does not matter, size does. If I love somebody, I will plan for our future.”

Arlina and Her Mistaken Identity
Arlina could possibly be a closet lesbian. At least the Syrian men in both Aleppo and Damascus thought so.
"You are gay. I can see it through your eyes,” said one of the cousins at the shop further down the stretch of shophouses. Arlina tried very hard to change this mistaken identity but without much success, even when she said, “I like boys! I like boys very much.” He refused to believe her and insisted that Arlina should meet his girlfriend who is bisexual. “I show you photographs of her.” Within seconds, he came back with photographs of his girlfriend and asked Arlina if she fancied her. “But I like boys, girls no feeling,” she stressed.
He remained convinced that Arlina was gay.

Just then, another of the cousin came, and he said, “My sister was normal before she met this girl. Once you meet her and you let her touch you, you will change.” The situation was so absurd I couldn’t stop laughing.
“Okay, you give her 15 minutes. Just meet her for a while, I will call her on the phone now, you talk to her, and chucked the phone to Arlina. Arlina sulked and refused.

“Today after work, we go for a party. I will get her to come, and with us, we go for a party, okie?” I knew where and what he was talking about. These private parties can turn out to be rendezvous parties for the young Syrians and sex would probably be somewhere in the agenda. I quickly said something casually, “Oh, we have to go to the mosque later today.”

“I asked you to join us for a party and you said you want to go mosque,” He signed and said. My answer to his question was way out-of-context, but we quickly made our exit before things became dodgy.

Four days later, the 26-year-old lawyer we met in Damascus during the day trip excursion at the waterfall said the exact same things about Arlina interestingly. “Yes, I think you’re gay. Because I can see it in your eyes.” Arlina was hopping mad and insisted to know why. “Maybe not now, but definitely five years from now, he said, with much conviction”. That left Arlina speechless, and me, the bystander, bemused. But one thing for sure, I know my old pal long enough to know that she is perfectly straight, and perhaps for “cheeko” than any of the “cheekopehs” we have met along the way.