14-day adventure in China, September 2007 (Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Guilin, Yangshuo)

I've finally left the museum after working there for seven years. Before I venture into my new job, I had two-weeks' leave to clear. Another holiday before I start my new job, proper. Since I've just returned from the Middle East in April, I decided to go somewhere slightly "cheaper" and thus chose China. Philippines was my first option but the typhoons prevented the trip to be materialised. I've decided to revisit China with Juanita, a friend whom I met during one of the trekking trips in Malaysia.

The 2 weeks in China was interesting and full of little incidents and hiccups that made it all the more colourful. We went to Kunming, Lijiang, Dali, backtracked to Kunming and travelled another 18 hours on the train from Kunming to Guangxi, Guilin and Yangshuo.

In Kunming, we joined a one-day tour which brought us to the infamous Stone Forest (Shilin), but also many souvenir shops. We witnessed how our guide's face turned from cheery to complete black when none of us patronised the shops. A young monk told my fortune so accurately that I parted with my $150 for a brief prayer session to "bless"my family.

On the way from Kunming to Dali via overnight bus, we encountered a burglary in the bus. My haversack got molested, and thankfully, moneybag intact .

In Dali, our driver, Mr Li from the guesthouse turned out to be our guardian angel and his lovely wife too. We made friends with his two beloved dogs. Together, we went boat-rowing in the famous West Lake in Dali, saw the Bai tribe tea ceremony and wedding procession, trekked the famous Chang mountain, ate super-dupey nice "dou-fen" at his relative's stall,visited an island where the ladies worn traditional ethnic outfits and sold coral decorative items and windchimes for a living. The two lovely duo treated us like family and invited us home twice for a sumptuous spread of homecooked dishes, using fresh vegetables from her garden and eggs from her chicken in the yard.

Over dinner, we shared stories about our travels, how they met and fell in love and the fatherly Mr Li even bickered with his wife about the kind of guys would be good for me. It was a very heart-warming feeling to feel so at home in a foreign land .This is why I enjoy backpack travelling so much - to really get to know the people.

From mere acquaintances to friends, it only needs a sincere and open heart, the cultural differences and age barriers can easily be forgotten.

In Lijang, we soaked ourselves completely in this ancient town, enjoying every nook and corner we turned, playing with children and trailing old ladies wearing their traditional tribal outfits in the marketplace. In the evening, we sat by the river, listening to the talented musician playing his magic with his saxaphone, enjoyed a meal with the famous Lijang river roasted fish.

In Guilin, we became typical tourists, joined the local tour group to cruise the river at night and sailed down the picturesque trail, from Guilin to Yangshuo. The Ying Xiang Liu San Jie was a spectacular light show peformance by 40o dancers directed by famous China filmmaker, Zhang Yimou. Though there was little plot, the show was visually breathtaking, using the beautiful mountains and river as the backdrop for the performance.

In Yangshuo, we trekked to the famous Longji Terrace fields, a spectacular sight of the labourious work of the hardworking Chinese on the ricefields over centuries. We visited the world's first ever Long-hair Village, where ladies' heads are adorned with their three different "sets" of hair nicely combed into different styles and them, decked in colourful ethnic flair skirts and high stockings. Our backsides were pinchd as it was the customary way of the villagers hospitality to their guests.

We tasted the famous beerfish in Yangshuo and went shooting rapids with a family of our and a young Chinese couple. Together, we played like children, splashing water on all the other floats that came by our way, attacking other boats with gusto and mischef. My poor left arm got bitten by little bedbugs that left many red itchy marks. We went for body massage for S$5 an hour and 11/2 hour facial for S$35 before we headed to the train station to return to Kunming to make our way back to Singapore.

Despite the terrifying toilet experiences, China remains one of the most interesting countries I've visited, so vaste and so rich in culture and heritage.

Unforgettable Toilet Experiences

I love travelling. But that's one thing that I fear most, sometimes,especially when I travel to China- the toilets, those off the beatentracks.

Toilets in China come in many permutations. I've been to Yunan, Dali, Lijiang, Shangrila, Yangshou and Kunming and each toilet experience is a truly memorable one, in a good way or bad. Here are some of the "uniquely China" toilet experiences that I've encountered that remained etched in my memory bank.

1) Breathing Life - A Maggoty, Maggoty Experience, China

The "maggotful" toilets which looked seemingly harmless from the outside, but full of "life" with moving maggots...crawling by the thousands, and i really mean thousands.

Dali 2004
The toilet was a simple cement shack, with a nice new zinc roof. Looks new, should be safe, I thought to myself. One of my traveller mates decided not to take the risk, and went for the bush instead. I took up the challenge, and walked further in. The smell was overpowering."What the heck!", i thought..pressed my nose really tight..took a very, very deep breath, as if I was going down 30 metres below sea level and walked into the toilet. As I stepped into one ofthe "partitioned" cubicles, I knew that instant moment that it was a mistake.

Sights of human poo-poo were replaced with maggots, heaps and heaps of them. To look down or not to look down- Either was a tough choice. As I looked down, I saw the crawly worms happily feastingaway..moving and threatening to inch near....Okie, I decided, Don't look...but I panicked, fearing that one of the little crawly ones might climb onto my feet without me noticing it...The sight of the whole pool of white crawly worms remained in my mind, for the next few weeks. For the next whole week, i saw them every time I close my eyes. Till today, I can clearly remember the sight...scary..indeed.

Maggots Part II, Dali 2007
I was on a boat cruise in Dali. We stopped at a little fishing island, where old tribal villagers made a living by selling fishes, coral handicrafts and tea. Nothing can be worse than the maggotful toilet that I've encountered in China years ago, I thought. As usual, I took an ultra big breath and plucked my courage to go into the toilet. As I walked in, spiderwebs greeted my face. Shit, I thought to myself...this means that very few people use this toilet. I went into one of the cubicles..and I saw "them" again..from the corner of my eyes....There were so many...heaps and thousands....i didn't even dare look down. This time, I decided. "okie, look up...and I tried to admire the wonders that the spiders have done to ceiling and the prey they caught in their web. I pressed my nose real hard...and cpntinued to lookup as I focused on what I had to do.

Within a minute, I was done with my "small" business. I stepped outof the cubicle, and to my horror, there was several maggots which had also successfully crawled up the shithole, onto the floor of the cubicle, down the steps, onto the cement floor. I scrambled out of the toilet, and swore that this toilet has to be the worst I've seen in China. The mere thought of the toilet still sends shivers down my spine. literally!

2) King of Stink!
These toilets are tucked away in the dingy corners of the souvenir shops. They are always jammed-packed with tourists. You can trace the location of the toilet by the mere"aroma",so strong you can't miss even if you're a mile away. To go in, better play safe- always fold your pants up to your kneecap and axe-oil or tiger balm is a must- best if you have a super-blocked nose.

3) Open-Door Policy & Flush-Me-Not
Toilets in the rural part of China are without doors, sometimes even without partitions. Cubicles are segregated using bare tiled walls which stand at less than a metre high.You can catch a glimpse of the person in front of you in the next cubicle but I can assure that it would not be a pleasant sight..so don't bother. In short, trust my advice, Mind Your Own Business, literally..If you can, avoid doing your "big"business.most of these toilets come without a proper flush system, and worse, no water at all..if you do it, you have to bear your own consequences, put simply, Clear Your Own Shit..

4) Choose-Your-Own-Spot
I prefer this kind of "nature" toilets. In areas where there are no toilets, we have the freedom to do our business in any spot we prefer.Under the tree, behind the rock, behind the van, next to the desert bush, amongst the shrubs..at least these are clean and you have helped to fertilize the nature. I've done them all, and trust me they are good. one word of caution, just need to make sure that your friend is a good distance from you.

5) My most stressful pee experience, Shangrila 2004
We were sitting in a small pick-up van on our way to Shangrila, on a windy mountain road. One of the ladies called the bus to a halt- nature's call. All of us got down the bus. The driver told us to go to the two sides of the road,and find our own spots. We tried to walk down the pebbled ground but the gravel made the ground slippery and impossible to walk. Our drivers and our photographer were happily smoking away at the front rear of the car. "Heck lah, let's pee at the back of the van.., no one will know.", one of my travelmates suggested. The rest agreed, and followed soon. I hesitated. Before I could pluck enough courage to do so, the rest of the ladies had completed their "business".

We still had about 3-5 hours on the road. "Okie lah,no choice, I think I better do it before my face turns green." My friend, Christine said,"Just do it and I will "jiaga" foryou."I went behind the small van and tried to relieve myself. For 5 seconds, my muscles remained tensed and contracted. Another 3 seconds, still tensed. I gave up and pulled up my pants, "Shit lah, can't do it. It's just too stressful squatting in the middle of the highway with no "shelter".

Less than as second later, I saw a huge tractor coming our way. "Heng ah, lucky I gave up," otherwise the tractor driver would have get a full view of me peeing away if I had persisted. It was a narrow shave, and the most stressful experience incident I've ever experienced.

6) Tibet Pee Experience- Peeing in the Carpark with Raining Hailstones..
My good 0ld travel mate, whose name shall remain anoynomous, A* had an interesting pee experience when we travelled to Tibet in 2005. We had to spend a night in Shigaze before we reach Lhasa. Both of us suffered from high altitude sickness, hers a lot worse than mine. The toilet was about 150 metres away, a simple cement shack.

A* was lying on bed and in the middle of the night, she exclaimed, "I really need to go and pee. how?how?". Her throbbing headache caused by the high altitude sickness, and the rain outside, made the 150 metres impossible to walk.

"Aiyah, just pee outside where the cars are parked, it's so late already, nobody will see you," I advised. A*hesitated, tried to endure for another 10-15minutes, muttering to herself, nonstop about her bursting bladder andher persistent headache, before she "buay tahan" and charged towards the door.

Five minutes later, she came back, wet, cursing and swearing about the hailstones that were pelting onto her head as she was concentrating on her "business", "Wah lao, already so difficult to pee there, then some more got stones raining down from the sky." I was lying on the bed listening to the unusual pee experience by my exasperated friend. Finally there was peace in the room as we nestled back into our beds, trying to forget our spinning heads to get a little weeny bit of sleep.

7) A Near-ghost Experience in Nepal
After a day of trekking along the Jomson trek, we checked into one of the guest house. The guesthouse was interesting decorated. The dimly lit corridor walkway had a plush carpet from one end to to other, and looked somewhat haunting. Our room was at the opposite end of thetoilet.My roommate A* wanted to go to the washroom, but was afraid ofthe dark. "Please lah, please lah, go with me to the toilet," she begged. I was lazy and refused, "Just bring your torchlight lah." A*started hopping and jumping up and down the room, in her usual exaggerated self, threatening to pee in the room if I didn't accede toher request.I compromised and agreed to wait for her to the middle ofthe walkway.

"Don't go okie, wait for me here.," she quivered, and left her torch shining my direction, casting a ghostly shadow of me. I waited for about a while, before one "angmo" traveller came up from the stairway. He seemed to be a little shocked by this "ghostly figure"with long hair standing near the stairway. He paused for a while, before he asked, " What are you doing here, in the middle of the night?" Bemused, I replied, "Don't worry, I'm not a ghost. I'm just waiting for my friend who's using the washroom coz she's afraid of the dark."

7) A Ghostly Toilet Experience in Switzerland
Accomondation in Switzerland is very expensive and being backpackers, we went for the cheapest hotel in Luzern, a small hotel up at the hilltop. The room was spacious, there was a big king-size bed and two small beds near the television. The toilet was just right outside the room. Both of us fought over who would get to sleep on the big king-size bed.I went to the toilet to shower. I had an uneasy feeling somehow, as if someone was looking at me. The hot air from the hot shower turned the mirror foggy. I had to wash my face in "parts", making sure that at least my eyes were not closed at any one time.

There was a persistent "knock, knock, knock" on my toilet door . That impatient A*again, i thought. I came out of the shower room, queried her three times. She said, she didn't. A*asked me to accompany her to the washroom. I didn't. She had a super quick shower, ran back to the room with her bare towel. There was a spooky feel in the room, but none of us spoke about it at night.

The television was left on, with a free channel showing excerpts of sex services and pornography throughout the night, to create some "sound effects" for the the hauntingly quiet room. Both of us slept in the two small side beds next to the television. The big king size bed was left untouched.

We discussed about the strange feeling the next day after we left the guesthouse. Like me, Arlina washed her face, "in parts", with her eyes open.

游牧人帐棚的那一夜- A Night With the Nomads

其中一个最难忘的经验莫过于在沿着山路寻找游牧人， 并在游牧人的 帐棚度过的那一夜。车窗外没有高楼大厦，但有无边无祭的高山草原， 走了大约三小时，才找到游牧人终迹。游牧人的妇女看到我们三个女生，非常的开心，她们的孩子们对我们十分好奇。她们频频端来茶水，西瓜， 还拿出她们珍藏的服饰与金饰让我们试穿。随着播音机播放的中东音乐，妇女与小孩不禁翩翩起舞， 她们一举手，一头足，玩的不亦乐呼， 我们在旁也拍得十分起劲。

游牧人的帐棚是亲手用羊毛做的， 能档风遮阳。帐棚内扑了鲜艳夺目的毛毯和布料，让阴暗的帐棚多了一些色彩。他们还邀请我们试试中东传统的水烟。好奇的我试了一口就猛咳嗽，再也不敢多抽一口。到了下午， 十九岁的姬娜开始在帐棚外为大家预备晚餐。 我们闲这没事也帮忙切菜，洗米。在暗暗的帐棚里， 点着油灯跟一大群游牧人一起吃晚餐，感觉非常亲切。在这样一个封闭的环境中，人们还是非常的好客有善， 令我们十分感动。

餐后，我们坐在帐棚里， 面对着七八个陌生的男人， 但一点都不觉得惟却。他们对新家坡有许多的好奇，问不完的问题。我们就这样，通过我们的导游，与游牧人们谈了好久。从牧羊，结婚礼俗 谈到教育致度，到 房屋与车子的价格， 香烟的价钱等等。

伊朗-伊斯法罕- Part Two-Esfahan

伊朗历史优久的建筑非常的漂亮壮观。 由其建于公元前4、5世纪的历史名城伊斯法罕市(Esfahan) 的夜景，更是令人震憾。 伊斯法罕市是伊朗最古老的城市之一。伊朗人民喜欢到公园，广场和河边的草地上聚在一起。要想感染当地悠闲家庭气氛， 目睹那温馨的一幕， 最好的方法就是傍晚到河边散步。

我们沿这河散步，看着 男女老少坐在厚大的地毯上，旁边支着小茶炉，一家人一起聊天，妇女们叽叽喳喳，孩子们跑来跑去， 十分歇意。伊斯法罕有四道古桥。我们也在河边乘坐了天鹅船。本以为会很浪漫，没想到在美丽的天鹅溪水背后， 竟然要有三双脚不停的骑着，累得我们呱呱大叫。也是其中一个著名桥之一。在建于1602年的三十三孔桥下， 又称Si-o-she Bridge，Bridge of 33 Arches) ，一个漂亮的伊朗少女主动用英语跟我们聊天。她正在上英语课程， 一看到有少见的旅客， 就想找人练习英文。

经过两次伊朗男士奇怪的约会后，我们决定避免与伊朗男士说话。在河边，我们主动和两个伊朗的女生，徐娜思和她的侄女“搭讪”，邀请她们跟我们一起吃晚餐。隔天， 她们真的赴约，到我们的客栈找我们。徐娜思还带了会说英文的哥哥与我们见面。那天的晚餐持的非常的愉快， 哥哥也很有生式风度，让我们对伊朗男人好色的想法改观。

餐后， 他们还特地带我们到山上欣赏伊斯法罕谜人的夜景。我们也回到伊玛姆广场去。虽然当时天气很冷，但我们早已被他们的诚意和温情而感动，觉得十分温暖。看着迷漫的灯光把美丽的建筑和清真寺的影子投映在水面，我们不禁对伊朗的文明感到佩服。

著名的波斯波利斯古建筑群 Persepolis曾是古波斯帝国兴盛的见证，是个不可错过的历史景点。 位于伊朗西南部历史文化名城设拉子东北约60公里处，2500多年前古波斯帝国全盛时期，它曾是一座金碧辉煌、雄伟壮丽的宫院。整个宫殿建筑在长450米、宽300米的石台上，其规模宏伟、气魄浩大体现了伊朗杰出的古代文明和人民的高度智慧。

我们也到了列为世界文化遗产的历史景点， 包括 乔加赞比尔古建筑群(Yadz)、巴姆古堡、
、乔加赞比尔古建筑群（胡泽斯坦省）， 也参观了一些博物馆， 例如伊朗地毯博物馆 。
伊朗历史优久的建筑非常的漂亮壮观。 由其建于公元前4、5世纪的历史名城伊斯法罕市(Esfahan) 的夜景，更是令人震憾。 伊斯法罕市是伊朗最古老的城市之一。伊朗人民喜欢到公园，广场和河边的草地上聚在一起。要想感染当地悠闲家庭气氛， 目睹那温馨的一幕， 最好的方法就是傍晚到河边散步。

我们沿这河散步，看着 男女老少坐在厚大的地毯上，旁边支着小茶炉，一家人一起聊天，妇女们叽叽喳喳，孩子们跑来跑去， 十分歇意。伊斯法罕有四道古桥。我们也在河边乘坐了天鹅船。本以为会很浪漫，没想到在美丽的天鹅溪水背后， 竟然要有三双脚不停的骑着，累得我们呱呱大叫。也是其中一个著名桥之一。在建于1602年的三十三孔桥下， 又称Si-o-she Bridge，Bridge of 33 Arches) ，一个漂亮的伊朗少女主动用英语跟我们聊天。她正在上英语课程， 一看到有少见的旅客， 就想找人练习英文。

经过两次伊朗男士奇怪的约会后，我们决定避免与伊朗男士说话。在河边，我们主动和两个伊朗的女生，徐娜思和她的侄女“搭讪”，邀请她们跟我们一起吃晚餐。隔天， 她们真的赴约，到我们的客栈找我们。徐娜思还带了会说英文的哥哥与我们见面。那天的晚餐持的非常的愉快， 哥哥也很有生式风度，让我们对伊朗男人好色的想法改观。

餐后， 他们还特地带我们到山上欣赏伊斯法罕谜人的夜景。我们也回到伊玛姆广场去。虽然当时天气很冷，但我们早已被他们的诚意和温情而感动，觉得十分温暖。看着迷漫的灯光把美丽的建筑和清真寺的影子投映在水面，我们不禁对伊朗的文明感到佩服。

著名的波斯波利斯古建筑群 Persepolis曾是古波斯帝国兴盛的见证，是个不可错过的历史景点。 位于伊朗西南部历史文化名城设拉子东北约60公里处，2500多年前古波斯帝国全盛时期，它曾是一座金碧辉煌、雄伟壮丽的宫院。整个宫殿建筑在长450米、宽300米的石台上，其规模宏伟、气魄浩大体现了伊朗杰出的古代文明和人民的高度智慧。

我们也到了列为世界文化遗产的历史景点， 包括 乔加赞比尔古建筑群(Yadz)、巴姆古堡、 乔加赞比尔古建筑群（胡泽斯坦省）， 也参观了一些博物馆， 例如伊朗地毯博物馆 。

伊朗- 第一站- First Stop in Iran

伊朗是我们在中东的第一站。我们得在新加坡乘搭飞机到迪拜的多哈机场，再转机到伊朗，路途非常的遥远。 可是，我们一抵达伊朗的首都德黑兰，所有的疲累都烟消云散。对于来自城市的三个女生来说，中东与新加坡的生活方式截然不同。

伊朗的路上虽然有交通灯， 但似乎没用人理睬。 伊朗人的驾驶习惯也很不好，车子开驶 得很快， 而且万全没有守交通规则。 要过马路时千万要很小心，但在小心之于， 也要“放胆”的走， 因为车子很少会慢下速度。乘搭德士须先跟师机说好车费，从市中心飞机场大约 要50，000 rials.

伊朗的法律规定，每一位女性都必须戴头巾，也不允许穿短裤凉鞋。旅客也不例外。伊朗妇女只有在自己的家里才可以把头巾拿下来。她们的穿着很保守。 街上来来往往的妇女都披着传统的服饰或头巾。长长的黑袍，都把她们漂亮的脸孔和身躯遮掩起来。

幸好，我们在出国前，都早已做好准备，到了“小印度”那儿购买了头巾和服饰。因为从头到脚都得包的密密的，所以我们的旅行箱里，都是一些长袖上衣和裤子。刚开始时，大家的确很不习惯“包头”的日子，老是忘了出门前 戴上头巾。 但过了几天，我们也慢慢地容入在这习俗里，也习惯了这样的穿着方式。 穿袜子又穿凉鞋， 头上裹着头巾的我们像极了乡巴佬， 连我们看到自己的模样都啼笑皆非。幸好没什么熟人，认得出我们三个来自新加坡的村姑。

从德黑兰乘坐火车到伊斯法罕市途中与三位当地的妇女同在一个车厢的经验也十分猾 激。 我们语言不通，只能以鸡同鸭讲的方式来沟通。车厢门一关，妇女们就把长袍取 下，里面穿的是贴身无袖的服饰。服务生一敲门， 大家又忙成一团，忙着“包头”， 穿外套，穿袜子， 才可以“见”人。

伊朗的货币是Rial。汇率大约是一欧元换11，000 Rials。 我们顿时成了百万小富婆！不过逛街时，我们就得携带大笔大笔的钞票。付款的时候，必须找个角落，仔细地数一数钞票才能付钱。真的不是开玩笑，光是数数钞票，就得花上老半天。想到那儿旅游的朋友可得注意了。伊朗的银行系统和我们熟悉的西方致度是隔绝的。信用卡在那里完全没法使用。 无知的我还带了八百元的新币，天真的以为有须时可以换成美元，但新币在伊朗根本没有银行会接受。

伊朗街边的饮食大同小异，没多大的选择。我们 每天三餐都吃烤肉（我们熟悉的kebab），串肉和薄饼子或米饭。所以到那里没多久，我们就开始想念新加坡的海南鸡饭，沙爹, laksa 等等。

伊朗人的相貌真的非常的好看－高高的鼻梁，深邃的眼眶、修长的睫毛。俊男美女到处可见，小孩更是可爱极了。因为国家的封闭，所以老老少少的伊朗人民，都不免对我们这些来自亚洲的旅客感到好奇。虽然语言不通， 但我们还是能通过比手画脚的方式与他们沟通，“聊天”，甚至有说有笑。 我们在中东所遇到的怪事与状况连连，趣事更一罗框。

在德黑兰的第一天，我们在一个清真寺外，拍拍照，想捕捉美丽的风景。有一位商人发现到我们在拍他，便迎面走了过来，要请我们喝茶。这时，他却拿出手机，对着我们猛拍照，还乘机把手搭在亚丽娜的肩上！身旁有一位在贩卖东西的大叔大概看不惯这商人“色色”的举动， 便说了一些话想替我们打报不评。商人当然很不悦，马上流露出气愤的表情。两人的声量也越来越大， 引起了周围路人的注意。 我们也不敢怎样，只好乖乖的坐在那里，眼看着围观的人越来越多， 感觉就像马戏团的动物，不知所措。

有好几次， 我们在旅游景点跟当地的小女学生们聊天时，被她们丛丛包围， 要我们在她们的簿子和小字条上签名留言， 顿时让我们感觉到当明星的滋味，签名签到手都麻了。

在阿炳哟呢和村 (Abyoneh Village)参观时，我们又被一群高中女生邀请享受她们摆放在毛毯上的丰盛的美食。不止如此，她们这些调皮的小女生还逼着要我们跳舞。这也难怪，因为社会保守，自己并不能在大庭广众跳舞， 就想要我们跳舞，透过我们的肢体和她们的音乐，大概也能让她们“享受〃舞蹈， 做他们一直想但有不能做的事。其他的小女生也跑了过来，个个都想要认识我们。最后，这些热情的女生们还以动人的歌声向我们道别，让我们感动不已。

我们在客栈里认识了珊尼先生。他说了一口流利的英语，还热心地邀请我们到他家与他的家人见面， 吃晚餐。在还未到中东前，我曾听朋友说过伊朗人十分豪爽好客，受邀到他们的家是平常事。所以我们这一次收到当地人的邀请， 并没觉得意外，反而感到特别兴奋。就这样，毫不犹豫地接受了珊尼先生的邀请。

第一次到别人家做客，当然不能两手空空的。所以，我们特地带了些我们从新加坡买来的小礼物和头巾，想要送给珊尼太太，当成见面礼，也算是回敬珊尼先生的好意。珊尼先生与我们约好七点半在客栈会面。他先把我们载到他妹妹的家。 妹妹虽然对突如奇来的不宿之客 有点惊讶，但还是热情宽待。她急急忙忙到厨房准备了水果花生等来招待我们。之后，珊尼先生和他 十九岁的侄子又说有朋友想要跟我们见面， 把我们载到一个偏远的住宅区去。

珊尼先生与我们约好七点半在客栈会面。他先把我们载到他妹妹的家。 妹妹虽然对突如奇来的不宿之客 有点惊讶，但还是热情宽待。她急急忙忙到厨房准备了水果花生等来招待我们。之后，珊尼先生和他 十九岁的侄子又说有朋友想要跟我们见面， 把我们载到一个偏远的住宅区去。

他的朋友看起来文质彬彬， 家里还有一个十岁大的儿子。珊尼先生说朋友的太太到另外一个小镇去接 孩子，应该在一个小时内会到家。当时已经九点半，我们也开始觉得情况有些不对劲。好不容易等到十点半， 听到门铃声时，我们还以为是太太回来， 晚餐也有着落了。不料， 不但没看他的太太，从大门进来的竟是珊尼先生另一班朋友， 全都是男性。

坐在客厅里， 一排男人对着 我们三个“弱女子”，大眼瞪小眼，感觉非常的奇怪。珊尼先生和他的朋友还特地播放音乐，跑到我们面前，跳了一段性感的中东舞给我们看。我们只能假装忙拍照，心 怕被逼于他们跳舞。后来， 看到其中一个男人随意把手放在微珍的肩上， 我们极刻找了一个理由， 说我们累了，请 珊尼先生送我们回去。

就这样， 我们带着空空的肚子， 未送的礼物回到客栈， 心里不免有一些“受骗”的感觉。 一天内遇到两次奇怪的状况，一个是没有晚餐的约会， 另一个更是一个很慌唐的要求。

我们与莫哈曼，他的叔叔， 阿弥尔和他的朋友是在伊斯法罕市的小巷问路时认识的。 阿弥尔和他的朋友是商人，当天 刚好修假。他们非常的热心， 不只把我们送到我们要去的其伊玛姆清真寺(Blue Mosque) 和伊玛姆广场，还坚持替我们付入门费，陪着我们到处游逛。参观了著名的景点后，他们还邀请我们到当地的传统餐厅吃午餐。

餐后， 他们又请我们到 阿弥尔的居缩去。我们坐在宽畅，铺满了毛毯 的客厅里，和新交的朋友无所不谈。悠闲的下午不料被一个突如奇来， 十分慌谬的要求给破坏。当我们聊的正起劲时，莫哈曼忽然说有些问题想问我，叫我跟他到睡房去。“我的叔叔想要包包你和亲亲你，可以嘛？”我被问这么奇怪的问题时， 感到很惊讶， 也不晓得要如何回复， 只好说，“No, no, Chinese and Muslim same same. cannot.sorry”,他又说，“But why? You are in Iran！" 我只好随意撒了个谎，"Boyfriend in Singapore . not happy. cannot cannot." 在伊斯兰教法里，女性是不可以和不是自己丈夫的男人有任何身体上的接触。 我想他们这样的要求也只有在“外人”面前才敢说得出口。事后想想，我们很顺力的从他的家“逃”出来，幸好有惊无险，真的是捏了一把冷汗。