14-day adventure in China, September 2007 (Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Guilin, Yangshuo)

I've finally left the museum after working there for seven years. Before I venture into my new job, I had two-weeks' leave to clear. Another holiday before I start my new job, proper. Since I've just returned from the Middle East in April, I decided to go somewhere slightly "cheaper" and thus chose China. Philippines was my first option but the typhoons prevented the trip to be materialised. I've decided to revisit China with Juanita, a friend whom I met during one of the trekking trips in Malaysia.

The 2 weeks in China was interesting and full of little incidents and hiccups that made it all the more colourful. We went to Kunming, Lijiang, Dali, backtracked to Kunming and travelled another 18 hours on the train from Kunming to Guangxi, Guilin and Yangshuo.

In Kunming, we joined a one-day tour which brought us to the infamous Stone Forest (Shilin), but also many souvenir shops. We witnessed how our guide's face turned from cheery to complete black when none of us patronised the shops. A young monk told my fortune so accurately that I parted with my $150 for a brief prayer session to "bless"my family.

On the way from Kunming to Dali via overnight bus, we encountered a burglary in the bus. My haversack got molested, and thankfully, moneybag intact .

In Dali, our driver, Mr Li from the guesthouse turned out to be our guardian angel and his lovely wife too. We made friends with his two beloved dogs. Together, we went boat-rowing in the famous West Lake in Dali, saw the Bai tribe tea ceremony and wedding procession, trekked the famous Chang mountain, ate super-dupey nice "dou-fen" at his relative's stall,visited an island where the ladies worn traditional ethnic outfits and sold coral decorative items and windchimes for a living. The two lovely duo treated us like family and invited us home twice for a sumptuous spread of homecooked dishes, using fresh vegetables from her garden and eggs from her chicken in the yard.

Over dinner, we shared stories about our travels, how they met and fell in love and the fatherly Mr Li even bickered with his wife about the kind of guys would be good for me. It was a very heart-warming feeling to feel so at home in a foreign land .This is why I enjoy backpack travelling so much - to really get to know the people.

From mere acquaintances to friends, it only needs a sincere and open heart, the cultural differences and age barriers can easily be forgotten.

In Lijang, we soaked ourselves completely in this ancient town, enjoying every nook and corner we turned, playing with children and trailing old ladies wearing their traditional tribal outfits in the marketplace. In the evening, we sat by the river, listening to the talented musician playing his magic with his saxaphone, enjoyed a meal with the famous Lijang river roasted fish.

In Guilin, we became typical tourists, joined the local tour group to cruise the river at night and sailed down the picturesque trail, from Guilin to Yangshuo. The Ying Xiang Liu San Jie was a spectacular light show peformance by 40o dancers directed by famous China filmmaker, Zhang Yimou. Though there was little plot, the show was visually breathtaking, using the beautiful mountains and river as the backdrop for the performance.

In Yangshuo, we trekked to the famous Longji Terrace fields, a spectacular sight of the labourious work of the hardworking Chinese on the ricefields over centuries. We visited the world's first ever Long-hair Village, where ladies' heads are adorned with their three different "sets" of hair nicely combed into different styles and them, decked in colourful ethnic flair skirts and high stockings. Our backsides were pinchd as it was the customary way of the villagers hospitality to their guests.

We tasted the famous beerfish in Yangshuo and went shooting rapids with a family of our and a young Chinese couple. Together, we played like children, splashing water on all the other floats that came by our way, attacking other boats with gusto and mischef. My poor left arm got bitten by little bedbugs that left many red itchy marks. We went for body massage for S$5 an hour and 11/2 hour facial for S$35 before we headed to the train station to return to Kunming to make our way back to Singapore.

Despite the terrifying toilet experiences, China remains one of the most interesting countries I've visited, so vaste and so rich in culture and heritage.